Tips for Grooming Your Dog

Whether you opt to take your dog to a professional groomer, use a self-service dog wash, or handle all of your dog’s grooming at home, regular grooming will keep your dog healthy and happy.

In addition to making him clean and sweet-smelling, grooming is a natural task that dogs perform for each other, just as their wild ancestors have done! When you take time to groom your dog, you increase his respect for you as his leader and strengthen your mutual bond. Please note that every dog has different needs when it comes to grooming; when in doubt, ask your groomer or veterinarian for advice or assistance.

Brushing

Supplies: Choose a brush well-suited to your dog’s type of coat; for example, a rake may work best for a long-haired dog, while bristle brushes are a better choice for your short-coat canine. Ask your groomer for recommendations.

Frequency: Daily for long-haired dogs (to avoid mats); weekly for short-coated dogs.

How to: Always brush in the direction of the hair growth, working in sections. For a long-coated dog, mist his coat with water as you brush to avoid breaking the hairs, which can create matting. Get your dog used to brushing by starting him at an early age. Be consistent and make the experience pleasurable. If your dog is apprehensive about trusting your hands and the brush, go slowly and gently. Keep some treats in your non-brush hand to distract him. Stop brushing when he seems more concerned with the brush than the treats, and stop the treats whenever he looks at the brush.

Notes: Brushing removes foreign objects and parasites, controls your dog’s shedding, stimulates blood flow, and distributes the skin’s natural oils, promoting a healthy shine. It also prevents mats in long-haired dogs. If left intact, a hair mat will tighten until your dog’s skin is pulled and his movement inhibited, resulting in severe pain and infection. NEVER use scissors to cut matted fur—you could seriously injure your dog! Rather, use electric clippers or special brushes, or take your dog to a professional groomer.

Bathing

Supplies: Use a dog shampoo and conditioner that will be best for your dog’s hair type; for example, there are hypoallergenic shampoos for dogs with allergies, or try oatmeal shampoo if your dog has itchy, dry skin.

Frequency: Depending on your dog’s coat, anywhere from weekly to monthly.

How to: Before a bath, brush your dog well and remove any hair mats. Never bathe a matted dog as this will make the mats worse. Wet him down thoroughly, avoiding his ears, eyes and face. Massage the shampoo into his skin, making note of any lumps, lesions, etc. Rinse his coat completely, then use a wet washcloth to gently wipe his face and the insides of his ears. Towel-dry him all over, including between his toes and inside his ears. Completely dry a long-haired dog to prevent matting.

Nail Trimming

Supplies: Choose from among several types of nail trimmers; some are more appropriate for very small dogs. Use styptic powder (or corn starch) to stop bleeding from accidental clips into the nail “quick,” and have a file ready to remove sharp edges.

Frequency: Weekly to monthly, depending on your dog’s activity level and needs.

How to: Slow, slow, slow! Let your dog get used to the smell and sound of the nail clippers and to having his feet held. At first, just touch the clippers to your dog’s nail to see how he reacts. Trim the smallest possible amount of nail, praising his calmness. You may need to “distract” him by holding a treat tightly in your hand while you clip, then reward him with the treat when you are done. For some dogs, asking a friend or family member to hold the dog or distract him may also be beneficial. If you feel uncomfortable at all, stop and take your dog to a professional. Your dog may feed off your nervous energy.

Notes: Always make very small clips so as not to cut the nail’s “quick” (area where the nail’s blood supply begins), which is difficult to see on dark nails. If you are uncertain of where to clip, check with your veterinarian or groomer. Overgrown nails can split or curl into a dog’s paw pad, causing lameness, pain and possible infection. Also trim your dog’s dewclaw nails.

Tooth Brushing

Supplies: Toothbrush and toothpaste made specifically for dogs.

Frequency: Daily to weekly.

How to: Again, proceed slowly. First, offer a little doggy toothpaste on your dog’s toothbrush and place it in his mouth. If he likes the taste, you’re ready for the next step. If he doesn’t, try another brand. Next, apply toothpaste on your fingers and explore the inside of his mouth, without actually brushing. Then start brushing a few teeth at a time until you are able to apply the paste to all of his teeth—the enzymes in the toothpaste will do a lot of the scrubbing for you.

Notes: Tooth brushing curbs foul doggie breath, stimulates blood flow to the gums, removes plaque and tartar, and prevents gum disease.

Cleaning Ears and Other Delicate Skin

Supplies: Cotton balls; water or ear wash (if recommended by your veterinarian).

Frequency: Weekly to monthly, or as recommended by your veterinarian or groomer.

How to: Warm the liquid ear wash or water, then gently wipe inside the ear with a wetted cotton ball (it’s fine if your dog shakes his head—this helps to loosen the ear wax), followed by a quick swipe with a dry cotton ball. Depending on your dog’s needs, you may want to simply use a dry cotton ball to clear away earwax and dirt; ask your veterinarian or groomer about what is best for your dog.

Notes: If left unclean, a dog’s floppy ears (particularly long ears) provide a place for earwax to build up and for infections from bacteria, fungus or yeast to grow. Ear infections are very bothersome to your dog (it itches and/or hurts) and you (it smells really bad!). Certain breeds with areas of delicate skin, such as folds on the face, will also require a regular gentle cleaning.

Helping Your Dog Become Comfortable with Grooming Sessions

Go slow. Don’t try to do all grooming in one session or by yourself. If your dog is uncomfortable, just do one task at a time or ask for help from a trusted professional.

Don’t make a big deal out of a grooming session. Maintain a light and playful attitude. Overly reassuring your dog during the process may make him think there is reason for him to become anxious.

Introduce your dog to running water in the sink, tub or shower where you plan to bath him.

If you have a small dog, you can create a grooming table by laying a towel on top of your washer/dryer or ironing board and then placing your dog on the sturdy surface.

During quiet times when your dog is relaxed and happy, you can help him become comfortable with being handled for grooming. Gently pat your dog on different areas of his body. Touch around his eyes and ears, move his legs, hold his feet and wiggle your fingers between his toes, lift his lips and touch his teeth, etc. Take your time with this kind of touch, and do it often so that it becomes an agreeable experience for your dog.

Tips for Bringing Your Dog to Your Workplace

More and more workplaces permit their dog-owning employees to make every day “take your dog to work day.” If you are one of these lucky people, strive from the outset to promote acceptance and harmony between your dog and your colleagues.

The key to a safe and successful experience is to prepare yourself and your dog in advance and to learn how to recognize potential problem situations before they arise. The privilege of taking your dog to work depends on you to demonstrate reasonable, consistent leadership and set boundaries for your dog’s behavior.

This leadership begins at home. Before you introduce your dog to the exciting and challenging environment of a shared workspace, be sure he is already in the habit of listening to you. Since workplace expectations may be more stringent than the behavior you allow at home, remember that what matters most is that your dog trusts and respects you as his leader.

Deciding If Your Dog is a Good Candidate for the Office
Know your dog’s temperament. A dog that is shy and fearful around visitors in your home is probably not a good candidate to go with you to work.

Have a good sense of your dog’s timing and needs for toileting. If he is not yet completely housebroken, visit the Bark Busters website (www.barkbusters.com) for tips on housebreaking dogs of any age.

You should have excellent off-leash control of your dog. He should respond consistently to basic commands such as “come,” “stay,” “leave it,” and “kennel-up” or “go to bed.” Your dog should also be able to ignore distractions, especially people (with or without their own dogs) passing by your workspace. Teach and test your dog’s tolerance of distractions in your front yard or at a dog-friendly café or retail store—not at your workplace.

Get an OK from your supervisor ahead of time to leave work early if your dog isn’t ready to handle the new environment. If he becomes too stressed, over excited or inhibited, it’s best to just take him home. Do not opt to leave him in your vehicle while you continue to work.

Preparing to Take Your Dog to Work
Dogs crave good leadership. If they don’t get it from their owner, they’ll take charge. That leads to bad behaviors, such as barking, jumping, aggression and pulling on the leash. Dogs will challenge for leadership in the home (and in the office), just as they would in their dog pack.

Establish a clear leadership role with your dog before you take him to the office. One way to do this is to ignore all of his requests, such as nudges to be petted or to play. Ignore him by breaking eye contact and turning away from him. When he has “given up” trying to get your attention, call him back to you for petting or play. When he responds to your requests and actions, versus you responding to his, he sees you as the leader.

Also remember that the leader always leads. You can further establish your role by leading your dog (going in front of him) up and down stairs, through doorways, and especially on walks. Engaging with your dog in a way that demonstrates your ability to be an effective leader helps him to feel safe and secure and promotes a balanced relationship based on bond, trust and respect.

Supplies for the Office
Help your dog acclimate to the office by bringing a blanket, bed or crate from home. This provides him with a familiar and comfortable smell and texture in the new environment.

Bring a leash (plus a backup) to walk your dog from the car to your office, to take him outside for toileting, and to control him in the office. Even if your dog is used to being off leash, don’t risk letting him go off leash in the unfamiliar surroundings of your workplace.

Bring some food or treats, his water bowl so he can stay well hydrated, and bags to clean up after toileting. Also, bring along treat-rewarding dog puzzle toys such as the Buster Cube® or KONG® products to help him pass the time.

Establish Routines for Your Dog in Your Office
Place bedding in your work area where your dog can feel secure (such as under or next to your desk) in a place that is out of the way of foot traffic. Teach your dog to stay there unless you invite him to do otherwise. Use a baby gate to block the doorway to keep him from wandering; even a well-housebroken dog may mark or toilet in a hallway or unoccupied office.

Schedule break time to take your dog outside for toileting. If you must leave for a meeting, isolate your dog in a closed office or have a dog-familiar friend sit in until you return.

If you anticipate a particularly busy day, it may be best to leave your dog at home or elsewhere (such as at a doggie daycare) so that you can focus on your work and he does not become stressed from being in a strange place without you for long periods of time.

If picking up a ringing phone and starting a conversation triggers your dog to bark or wander, set up learning opportunities to teach him that this is not acceptable behavior. Have a friend or co-worker call you, so you can teach without undue stress or neglect of your work responsibilities. Additionally, enlist a co-worker to walk by your workspace at a pre-arranged moment to teach your dog that you don’t want him to respond to such distractions.

Meeting People and Other Dogs in the Office
Learn how to read your dog’s body language around visitors to your office, especially those who are afraid of dogs—some dogs will respond protectively to human fear. If your dog exhibits this response, you should not leave him unsupervised in your workspace. Training can minimize the likelihood of his acting in response to that fear.

Do not leave your dog unsupervised with other dogs. Remember that other dogs might not be as well behaved as your dog. Learn how to read your dog’s body language around other dogs and watch for any signs of aggression, such as growling, staring, and stiff body posture. Defuse potential conflict by removing your dog from the area. Don’t try to force unfamiliar dogs to “become friends.”

If a dog scuffle occurs, do not lunge in and try to break it up by hand—you could get bitten accidently. Throw your dog’s blanket or a towel over the heads of the fighting dogs. This will confuse the combatants long enough for you to defuse the situation.

A Good Dog-Workplace Experience Depends on You
Your dog depends on you for his basic needs, including feeling safe wherever you take him. Preparing him well in advance of excursions to your workplace can ensure that you, your dog and your colleagues will have an enjoyable experience in the new environment.

Choosing a Puppy

How to Make Sure the Puppy You Bring Home is the Right One for YOUR Family

A dog’s age, breed and temperament, combined with your lifestyle and personality, all play an important role in determining what kind of dog is the best fit for you and your family. Adopting a puppy has certain advantages—you will be able to choose a dog with the best temperament for you and ensure he gets a proper education before behavioral problems or bad habits develop. But puppies bring added responsibilities, too. During the first few months, a puppy requires more of your time than an older dog for housetraining, socialization, feeding, and entertainment, as well as additional training as your goals change and your puppy matures.

If you do not have the time for a puppy, consider adopting a full-grown dog that has already gone through the puppy stage. But if you’re sure that you are ready for the responsibility of puppy ownership, you should consider the following:

What Breed of Puppy is Most Appropriate for Your Lifestyle?
Are you very active and outgoing? Do you have a large home, yard or park nearby? If so, a larger-breed dog may be the best choice for your family. But, if you tend to be less outgoing, live in an apartment or condo, or have small children or other small pets, you may want to consider a dog that will be smaller when full-grown. Do your research on the characteristics different breeds tend to display. But remember that while breed can have an impact on a dog’s personality, you should base your decision primarily on what you know about the puppy’s background and what you observe about his temperament. 

What is the Right Temperament for Your Family?
Temperament has nothing to do with a dog’s size, breed or upbringing—temperament is something innate in a dog. A dog’s temperament has a lot to do with how easily he can be trained and, while good training can improve certain traits in a dog, training does not change the dog’s temperament.

Even when a puppy is very young, there are clues to what his temperament might be. Within the litter, watch how the puppies run and play to determine where each puppy stands in the litter’s pecking order. More confident puppies act assertive by standing over the other littermates. Less confident puppies act submissive by rolling over or lowering their heads.

If you are considering a puppy at a shelter or rescue that is no longer with his litter, find out as much as you can about his background and behavior from staff members and volunteers who have walked or played with the pup. Ask whether he’s been socialized with other dogs and how he behaves in a variety of situations, such as during feeding, walking, and being put in a crate or kennel.

Also observe the individual puppy you are considering when he’s alone with you. A well-adjusted puppy will follow you freely when you lead him. Drop a soft glove or cloth near the puppy and watch his reaction: 

• A confident puppy will approach the object immediately to investigate. While this puppy could grow up to be a well-adjusted dog, it is likely to be strong-willed and might be a challenge for a soft-natured person.
• A less confident pup may jump and move away when the object is dropped, but will usually return fairly quickly to investigate. Less bossy than the more confident puppy described above, this puppy will most likely make a great pet.
• The puppy that takes longer to approach and runs around the object acting as if it is alive and might attack is a little timid, but should still make a wonderful pet with proper, gentle training.
• The puppy that barks at the object, runs away and crouches down or refuses to return to the spot has a more nervous temperament and could be a difficult pet. More patience will be required during training.

Finally, lift and hold the puppy in your arms. A pup that settles in and remains still is likely to be calmer and more easily trained than one that wriggles and tries to escape.

Training Your Puppy
Once you’ve chosen your new addition to the family, be sure to start training as soon as you bring him home. By introducing the expectations and rules of your household early, he will quickly acclimate and feel more comfortable and secure in the knowledge that he is part of a pack that has a calm, consistent leader.

Just like people, puppies come in all shapes, sizes, and temperaments. Do a bit of research first, then visit your local shelter. Determining what breeds and temperaments would be the ideal fit for your family will help ensure that the puppy (or dog) you bring home will become a permanent part of your household.

Working from Home with Your Dog

With the rise of telecommuting and self-employment, many dog owners are able to work from home and don’t have to routinely leave their furry friends for the day. Some dogs ease into this scenario and are able to be with their owners throughout the day with without exhibiting behavioral issues. For others, however, there are a number of behavioral problems that may arise—such as dogs demanding attention by barking or whining, often at the worst possible times. Read on to find out how to address these common issues.

Why do dogs act up in the home-office environment?
Because of the large amount of time spent together in close proximity, these dogs often have increased opportunities to train their owners! They might nudge for pets or climb in laps. They often nap under the table or desk where their owners are working, but when they wake up, they will request attention—and usually get it.

While seemingly cute and innocent, whenever a dog gets to direct the behavior of his owner, he sees himself as being put in the leadership role. And as the leader, a dog may feel he has the right to demand his owner’s attention—often at inopportune times, such as when the owner is on the phone or involved in an important assignment.

Picture this common scene: You are on an important conference call. A few minutes in, your dog starts to bark or even jump on you. The call is important and you can’t afford the interruption, so your dog gets picked up or petted—and your attention gets divided. You can’t have your dog barking during the call, so you give in. This, however, teaches him that barking and whining is rewarded with attention and affection, which leads to more and more demands at times when you are occupied.

What can I do?
The first thing to do is to separate workspace from dog space. Go to work in another room, separated from your dog. Even though your dog may choose to go elsewhere and nap during the day, if he has free access to you, he will most likely come and find you when he wakes up. It’s important that your work area is off-limits and that your dog is confined (either gated or crated in another room) so he doesn’t have access to you. If he barks for your attention at first, you may want to have at least a couple of closed doors between you as he gets used to the new situation. Make sure to give him something to occupy his attention, such as a treat-rewarding Buster® Cube or KONG® toy.

Do NOT to go to your dog’s space if you hear any barking, whining or pacing. Only return when he’s calm and quiet. If you return when he’s acting out of stress, he will learn that making a fuss is rewarded with your attention.

Practice obedience when you do return. Training your dog engages his brain. This will tire him out and help him become calmer. Try asking him to SIT and STAY before you pet him or toss a toy.

Work on your leadership skills. Be proactive in asking for your dog’s attention and focus. Always begin play on your terms; for instance, if he brings you a certain toy for play, take control of the toy and wait until later to bring it out yourself and initiate play.

Time management is important. If you went off to work without your dog, you would only have certain times when you could interact with him. Work on establishing set times for interactions. For example, take a 10–15 minute break mid-morning and again in the afternoon, or a half hour at lunchtime. Do what works for you and also meets your dog’s physical and mental needs. It’s important that you don’t continuously stop what you are doing and engage with your dog. He’ll quickly get used to the cues you give for your set interactions and will settle down quicker during the in-between times.

As he learns that your world doesn’t necessarily revolve around him, he’ll relax and not be as anxious for your attention. His bad behaviors are simply learned behaviors, because they have worked in the past; your dog will only make a different choice if those strategies no longer result in your attention and what he interprets as praise. Be patient, calm and consistent. If you never separate from your dog, he will have a hard time feeling comfortable by himself when you do have to leave him. Practicing separation while working from home or with your dog at the office will help you both be more relaxed and happy, together or apart.

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Dominance Theory

As a professional trainer I read a lot of material regarding dogs, training and behavior. Over the last few years a lot of discussion has been around various training methods and philosophies. I believe that open discussion is valuable. Unfortunately a lot of the discussion has become emotional rather than logical. This is certainly true regarding dominance and leadership.

There have been numerous articles stating that the dominance theory is outdated. Unfortunately they almost always start off with a definition which ties or equates dominance with aggression. These are actually two different issues. Dominance has to do with how a dog feels about its relationships and its place in the pack or family hierarchy and aggression is a strategy that any dog might use to solve an issue, typically one that it’s uncomfortable about.

Those who make the case for dominance theory being outdated state that the latest scientific studies show that dogs are not dominant and do not want to take over in our homes. I agree with this statement; dogs typically do not want to be the leaders in our homes. The problem is that people and dogs are different species and there are misunderstandings between dogs and people.

Canine leadership is gained by consistently directing or influencing the behavior of the pack or family. This is typically done without aggression. When a dog does become the leader in our home, he is more likely to display dominance, but again this is not aggression.

I was speaking with some veterinarians and one made a statement that jumping up was one way that a dog tries to take over. Jumping up is often a dominant display, so at this point the dog usually already believes that he’s in charge. Dogs do not want to be in charge. It’s stressful trying to live up to the responsibilities inherent with leadership. Leaders are responsible for the safety and well being of their packs. Very few dogs are actually natural born leaders. Most dogs just want to fit in and not be saddled with the leadership job.

Unfortunately however, because of misunderstandings, people inadvertently and often without even realizing it give the responsibilities of leadership to their dogs. This is when the dogs will display dominance, because they are in the dominant role.

These displays of dominance usually have nothing to do with aggression. Some common displays of dominance include jumping on people, not listening or obeying commands, demanding their families’ attention and rushing to the door when anyone comes to their home. Further displays might include barking for attention or to be fed or let in or out.

So how does this relate to training? It starts with understanding our canine companions. Dogs are a different species. They learn about the world differently, they communicate differently and they view relationships differently than we do. They like and dislike different things so their priorities are different than ours. They are dogs and while they can do some amazing things, they will always view life from the canine perspective and will never understand our human perspective. Luckily we have the intelligence to understand a different point of view, at least partially. We can modify our behavior in order to model a canine leader’s persona when we are interacting with our dogs. Leadership is not about confrontation, which most of the discussion revolves around. Leadership does involve establishing a relationship based on mutual love, respect and trust.

So is the dominance theory outdated? If it means being physical, mean or aggressive with dogs then yes, if it means understanding the nature of dogs and providing leadership in ways that they understand, then no. Leaders are dominant and will display it in different ways.

Take the time to learn how Rover views the world and his relationship with you. Give him the leadership he craves. When you do you’ll have a dog that is happy to follow you and your guidance. We all know the next line. . . Happy Dogs = Happy Families

Tips to Working from Home with Your Dog

Working from Home with Your Dog

 A number of our clients either work from home or take their dogs to work.  They are often challenged with similar issues. Their dogs demand attention, at the wrong times, often by barking or whining.

 Why?
Because of the close proximity between the dogs and people and the amount of time spent together, these dogs often have a lot of opportunities to “train” their humans. They might nudge for petting or climb in their laps, if they are small dogs. They will nap under the table or desk where the human is working, but when they wake up they will request attention, and usually get it.

 This puts the dogs in the leadership role. They are directing the behavior of their human companions. When that happens then they feel they have the right to demand the person’s attention. This will often happen when the person is on the phone or involved in an important assignment.

 What Happens Next?
There is an important conference call. A little while into the call, Rover starts to bark at or sometimes jump on the person. The call is important so Rover gets picked up and the person’s attention gets divided. We can’t have Rover barking during the call so we give in.

 This however leads to more and more demands for attention when it’s not being given.

 What to do?
The first thing to do is separate work space from dog space. If you’re at home, go off to work in another room, away from Rover.  This separation should be your idea not Rover’s.  We hear often that Rover will go elsewhere and nap, but if he has free access to you he will come and find you when he wakes up. It’s important that your work area is off limits and that Rover is confined, either gated or crated in another room, so he doesn’t have access to you. If he barks for your attention you might want to have at least a couple of closed doors between you as he gets used to the new situation.

 Give him something to occupy him such as a Buster Cube or Stuffed Kong. He’s less likely to seek your attention if he’s got something to do.

 What Next?
The next thing is to steel yourself NOT to go to Rover’s space if you hear any barking, whining or pacing. Only return when he’s calm and quiet. If you return when he’s making a fuss, he’s learning that making a fuss gets your attention, which is what he wanted.  You might be able to correct him and get him to settle down, but again it’s important that you do that from a distance out of his sight. If he sees you while he’s making a fuss, he’s gotten what he wanted, You. 

 Practice obedience when you do return. Having Rover do sits/downs/stays etc. engages his brain. These will tire him our and make him calmer. Practice Nothing in Life is Free by making him do something for you in order to get what he wants. i.e. Rover has to sit before you pet him or toss the toy.

 Work on your leadership skills. Be proactive in demanding Rover’s attention and focus. Control the resources, if there’s a certain toy he brings to you for play, take control of that toy and you bring it out and initiate play. The more proactive you are in engaging Rover, the more of a leader you become.

 Time Management is important. If you went off to work you would only have certain times when you could interact with Rover. Work on establishing set times. Maybe take a ten to fifteen minute break mid-morning and again in the afternoon, or a half hour at lunch time. Do what ever will work for you. Again it’s important that you don’t continuously stop what you are doing and engage with Rover.  Dogs have a sense of when things happen, if you develop a schedule he’ll get used to it and will settle down quicker during the in between times.

 As he learns that your world doesn’t necessarily revolve around him, he’ll relax and not be as demanding. This is learned behavior, because it has worked. He’ll only make a different choice if that strategy no longer gets him the result he wanted. It might take a while, be patient and he will come around. The more times you’ve given in the longer it will take. Be calm and consistent and practice separating from him. If you never separate from Rover, he’ll never be comfortable by himself. Both you and Rover need to feel good when you are not together. Only you have the wherewithal to accomplish this.

 Teach Rover how to fit into your world or he will teach you how to fit into his.  The choice is yours. We know the results when we are in control of the situation. Rover relaxes and so do you.

 Happy Dogs = Happy Families.

Using Crates and Barriers

Using Crates & Barriers
A dog’s most basic need for safety is shelter, or a den. While your dog may feel that your whole house is his den, it can sometimes be too large of a space for him to feel secure. This may cause him to feel stressed and confused, rather than safe and sound.

With just a few basic tools, you can help your dog feel safe in his environment. Use of a crate or pet carrier, baby gates and barriers can help you to safely confine your dog to ensure his well-being.

Crate = Home Sweet Home
A properly introduced crate or pet carrier can be your dog’s sanctuary. Because it provides the comfort and security of a den, a crate can be the ideal place for your dog to sleep and get away from household activity. A crate also helps with his housebreaking and obedience training, and brings you peace of mind knowing he and your house are safe from harm or mischief. 

• The crate should be appropriate for your dog’s size: roomy enough to allow him to stand up, turn around, and lay down comfortably. If the crate houses a growing puppy, you might have to use a barrier to reduce its size. Some crates come with dividers for this purpose.
• Include soft bedding and a few toys. (Some behaviors might modify this suggestion.)
• A crate should never be considered a substitute for diligent training and supervision and should not be used as punishment. “Time-outs” are not an effective training strategy.
• Avoid leaving a dog in his crate for extended periods of time-depending on his age and bladder size/strength, no more than 10 hours for a dog and 6 hours for a puppy.
• If you will be away longer than that, arrange for a friend or pet sitter to let your dog out to toilet during that time.
• When you must confine your dog for an extended period, place him in a small room or some other safe and restricted area. 

Baby Gates and Barriers
An alternative to a crate is confining your dog in a dog-proofed part of your home, such as a laundry or mudroom. Use a baby gate to confine your dog to the room. Likewise, use a gate to block your dog’s access to any areas of the house you regularly deem off-limits.

If your dog has a tendency to toilet in the house, confine him to a room with a floor of vinyl or tile for easy cleanup of any accidents. Place his bed and some toys in the room for him. Treat-giving toys, such as KONG® products and the Buster® Cube, will provide him with hours of entertainment.

You can also use a barrier to: 

• Block your dog’s access to a new baby’s room.
• Maintain household safety when introducing a new dog to your home. Confine the new dog to a small area behind the gate, and allow your resident dog space to roam and visit the new dog when he likes.
• Create a safe environment for a cat you are introducing to your resident dog. A baby gate is easy for a cat to hop over to find safe haven, and keeps the cat’s food bowl or litter box away from the dog. Beware, however, that using a gate isn’t always successful, as some dogs have not learned to respect a gate; you may need to invest in an extra-tall gate if your dog is a jumper.
• Confine your dog in the workplace so he can’t wander or disturb others. 
• Restrict a drooling or begging dog from the dining area during meals.
• Confine a dog that is frightened of people who visit your home. This helps keep your dog from feeling stressed and keeps guests safe. Be sure to provide your dog with something fun to do while he is confined; this not only helps him associate being confined with a positive experience, but also helps prevent him from being bored. Provide treat-giving toys to keep him occupied. 

Know When to Get Help
Remember, the need for safety and shelter is just one of your dog’s needs. If all his needs are not appropriately addressed, crating may only create new problems. A qualified trainer such as a Bark Busters behavioral therapist can help you determine the cause of your dog’s resistance to crates or barriers and provide ways to help you make sure your dog knows he is safe in your household.

Enjoy the Outdoors with Your Dog!

Want to soak up the sun with your dog—and burn off some of his endless energy? Try these outdoor games and activities.

Your dog loves fresh air and sunshine as much as you do—not to mention all the new and interesting sights and smells the outdoors brings! Try some of these outside games and activities to keep your dog healthy and happy. In addition, playing with your dog, like training him, enhances the bond you share and helps him keep his focus on you!

You can change these games depending on how your dog is best motivated: praise/belly rubs, favorite toys, items to fetch, or treats. If you do use treats, one way to keep your dog from gaining weight from too many snacks is to use some of his mealtime kibble to play the games. As with any activity, keep each session short and fun! It’s better to end the game before your dog gets bored or overly excited.

FREESTYLE OBEDIENCE

Take your dog to a large open area or yard and have him follow you around as you deliver commands: SIT, DOWN, STAY, COME, etc. Give lots of praise when your dog completes the correct action. You can then move on to more advanced commands, teaching your dog to BACK UP, JUMP over something, CIRCLE around, etc. Continue walking around the area so that your dog has to focus his attention on you!

OBSTACLE COURSE

Set up your own obstacle course and see just how much your dog has picked up from watching all those agility shows on TV. Try including a tube (such as an agility tunnel/chute, available at most pet retailers) for your dog to run through, a pause table, a ladder, weaving sticks, poles to jump over, etc.—you can be creative with everyday items already in your yard, like sticks or Hula-Hoops. Start with your dog on a leash, and walk him through the course in the order you want him to complete the obstacles. Give him lots of praise when he gets it right, and recruit friends, family and neighbors to serve as judges—or to bring their own dogs to compete!

BATTING PRACTICE

Grab a wiffle bat and a few balls to hit across the yard or a park and have your dog play outfielder—no glove required!

WET FETCH

If you have a body of water available that your dog is allowed to play in—such as a lake or pool—it can be a great way to take fetch to another level and cool off your pooch. Take a couple of balls or toys that will float to the water’s edge and throw them in for your dog to swim after! If your dog hasn’t had much experience in the water, start by tossing the object just at the edge of the water, so all he has to do is get his feet wet, and slowly throw it farther. Remember that not all dogs like to swim—don’t push your dog to go in deeper than he is ready to, and make sure to first teach him where he can safely and easily exit the water.

HOMEMADE PUP-SICLES

You can use a Popsicle mold or just an ice cube tray to freeze yummy, refreshing treats for your dog. Get creative by tossing ingredients such as yogurt, bananas, peanut butter, and carrots into a blender with a little water or, for picky pooches, chicken or beef broth (all-natural or low sodium versions are best). If your dog is a dedicated chewer, try stuffing a KONG® with your concoction and putting it in the freezer. Your dog will look forward to cooling off with his special reward at the end of playtime.

TRACKING

While not all dogs will take to scenting and tracking, it’s a fun experiment to try! Go somewhere that your scent isn’t already scattered—or use a strong- and unique-scented piece of leather—and shuffle your feet or rub the leather in a distinct but straightforward pattern. Have someone else stay with your dog indoors or out of sight. Then, have your dog sniff you and your feet (or the leather) and lead him along the path you created, encouraging him to sniff along the way. If he seems to be getting it, try it again, somewhere you haven’t been, and increase the complexity of your trail.

WET & WILD

Fill up a kiddie pool with water and encourage your dog to splash around. For even more fun, grab a hose and have your dog chase the stream of water in and out of the pool, combining playtime and a bath.

HIDDEN TREASURE

Start with your dog in a SIT/STAY, allowing him to smell a treat, then hide it somewhere in the yard. Release your dog from the SIT and watch him explore with unbridled enthusiasm to find it! As your dog masters the game, add a degree of difficulty by hiding a number of treats in advance. You can also try scatter-feeding your dog his kibble at mealtimes (throwing it all around the yard)—many dogs will spend hours enthusiastically hunting for every last bit.

WALK THIS WAY

In addition to being great exercise for you and your dog, walking is an activity almost anyone can participate in and a great way to get to know your neighbors! Organize a monthly, weekly, or even daily walking group for your neighborhood or apartment building. Keep it interesting by choosing different destinations (like dog parks or dog-friendly stores and cafes), or up the intensity by choosing portions to pick up the pace. This will keep your dog intellectually as well as physically engaged and is guaranteed to wear you both out!

BIKEJORING

 Once your dog has a firm grasp on basic obedience and on-leash manners, consider bringing him along on your bike rides! There are a variety of devices and special harnesses that are specifically made for this sport—called “bikejoring”—that attach your dog safely to a bicycle. Never attempt this by just holding your dog’s normal leash in your hand while steering. Start slowly, guiding your dog along at a steady pace, and keep rides short. Gradually build speed and distance. You can also check for canine biking classes in your area.

In addition to the activities above, Training Dogs the Aussie Way by Bark Busters founders Danny and Sylvia Wilson contains about 20 pages of tricks to work on with your dog (available at BarkBustersBoutique.com, Amazon.com, or from your local Bark Busters trainer). Remember that basic obedience is the foundation for having fun with your dog—games and activities should be a fun and rewarding bonding experience, not a stressful time, for you and your dog.

To get a copy of our handout, click here.

Helping a Dog That Has Lost a Mate

It is not easy to comfort humans who have lost much-loved pets, but at least we can talk them through it and help them to vocalize their feelings. Comforting a dog that has lost a mate takes much more thought and effort.

Dogs grieve the loss of another dog to varying degrees, depending on the relationship and bond they built over their time together, exercising and entertaining one another, and where they saw each other in the pack, leading and following.

Some dogs will refuse to eat; some suffer the loss more dramatically by trying to escape, apparently to go in search of their lost mate. Some seem to instinctively know what has occurred and behave in a more needy fashion than usual, following you from room to room, demanding attention or affection.

If you know that one of your dogs may be nearing the end, soften the upcoming transition by spending extra time alone with your other dog, engaging in activities that he enjoys, such as walks or playing fetch. Your aging or sick dog will probably enjoy some peace and rest.

Whatever form your dog’s grief takes, you have to ensure that special thought is given to helping him cope with his loss. Lots of walks can be very helpful; try not to leave your dog alone too much and keep his routine as consistent as possible. Fresh air and exercise can benefit you both. Instigate play, or try providing an interactive toy that delivers a treat (e.g. Buster Cube® or KONG® puzzle toys). You will be grieving too—after all, you have also lost a friend—but you need to keep your spirits up as you still have a dog that needs you now as much as ever.

Some owners begin to alter their own behavior; they stop taking the remaining dog for walks or stop behaving like a leader. The dog’s whole routine is changed, which is very stressful for a dog and will add to his loss and compound his problems. It is extremely important that the leadership you have provided your dogs over the years remains, as dogs that lose a mate often suffer from what their owners fail to do. If you stop showing clear leadership, your dog has not just lost a mate, but also his leader. By remaining calm and consistent and providing clear direction, your dog will feel more secure in the stable environment you are maintaining.

Think carefully before bringing another dog into your household, as this can be counter-productive. Your remaining dog may not bond with the new dog because he hasn’t finished grieving. Remember—it is not easy to mend a broken heart, human or canine, so wait it out. Right now, your dog needs your love and understanding. Be patient and supportive and he will return to his normal, fun-loving self.

For more information, suggestions or just a sympathetic ear, give your nearest Bark Busters dog behavioral therapist a call. Remember:

• If possible, prepare your dog for the departure of his mate.
• Continue taking lots of walks and playing games that your remaining dog enjoys.
• Provide him with interactive toys.
• Stick to your normal routine as much as possible.
• Be sure to show your dog that you are still his leader.
• Don’t rush out and buy another dog; broken hearts don’t mend easily, so try to give it some time.

Dog Safety Tips for Kids and Parents (Let’s Not Get Bitten!)

As part of our ongoing commitment to keep pets and people safe, Bark Busters, the world’s largest dog training company, gives free dog safety seminars for community-based organizations. Additionally, Bark Busters is offering the Bach & Buster Buddy Dog Safety Program™, a unique online public service program designed to help educate children about dog safety and bite prevention. These free community-based programs are part of a nationwide effort by the 240+ Bark Busters dog behavioral therapists across the country in support of our neighbors. 

Part of our mission at Bark Busters is to help keep people and their canine friends safe. We understand that dog bites are a serious matter, and we believe that more public education, such as the free community seminars we offer, can help prevent situations that can lead to dog bites. 

Free Dog Safety Seminars

Each year on average, nearly five million Americans are bitten by dogs—and almost 50 percent of these are children bitten by their family dog. Of those injured, nearly 800,000 require treatment in a hospital, and dog-related injuries resulted in over 30 deaths in 2010 alone. To combat such startling statistics, Bark Busters offers free dog safety seminars for community-based organizations. Hosted by Bark Busters’ dog behavioral therapists, these free community seminars give participants dog safety and bite prevention tips while helping them understand how to communicate more effectively with dogs by using voice control and body language. Community-based organizations interested in learning more about dog safety, the canine psyche or “pack” social structure are invited to contact their local Bark Buster Trainer to schedule a free seminar anytime throughout the year. 

Free Online Dog Safety Program for Children

Developed specifically for school-age children, the Bach & Buster Buddy Dog Safety Program provides fun, interactive dog safety activities online. Bark Busters wants to educate children and adults on how to stop dog bites before they happen by making the right decisions around familiar and unfamiliar dogs. Through the Bach & Buster Buddy Dog Safety Program, kids can learn what to do and what not to do around dogs in order to prevent dog bites across the nation. To participate in the Bach & Buster Buddy Dog Safety Program, visit: www.BarkBustersBuddy.com. 

Both of these free community resources expand on important tips for preventing dog bites and dog-related injuries, such as the following: 

How to Stay Safe When a Dog Approaches

• Don’t turn and run—dogs naturally love to chase and catch things.
• Stand still, with your hands at your sides. In most cases, the dog will go away when it determines you are not a threat.
• Don’t put your hand out—just allow the dog to approach you to sniff you.
• Don’t scream. If you say anything, speak calmly and firmly.
• Face the dog at all times, but don’t stare. Avoid eye contact.
• When possible, back away slowly, watching the dog from the corner of your eye, until the dog is out of sight.

Safety Tips for Parents

• Never leave a young child or baby alone with any dog.
• Never allow your young child to discipline a dog.
• Never allow your child to feed or walk a dog unsupervised.
• Never allow your child to pull on a dog’s collar, ears or tail.
• Never allow your child to play aggressive games (like wrestling) with any dog.
• Never allow your child to pet a dog that is in someone else’s car or truck.

For more information or to discuss the seminars available in your area, contact your local trainer.

CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD HANDOUT.